Kames Hotel to Kilbride Bay Circular

Starting at Kames Hotel, turn left, walk down to the loch side and follow the road round to the right. You could of course start further out in Tighnabruaich and make your way to Kames. You can walk on parts of the foreshore along this road, or find a rock to stop and perch on to soak in the view. If you keep your eyes open you can often spot porpoises or seals along this stretch of the Kyles of Bute. If you have a dog with you please be aware of the wildlife that nest along the shoreline and off into the woods especially the oystercatchers. Keep following the coastal road until you reach Carry Farm.

Great stop-off point if you’re feeling in need of a break. Carry Farm sits right on the shoreline and has camping, a sailing school, a coffee shop, and even an art gallery where everything has been made on the farm! Last time I was here they focused on pottery and textiles. The textiles were all made from the wool from the farm’s lovely but slightly strange looking flock of Hebridean sheep.

From Carry Farm the road splits away from the coast with fields on either side. You may encounter sheep just wandering around so as always if you have a dog, be aware of your surroundings and ready to put the lead on straight away if you’re walking off-lead. I always advise to walk on-lead whenever you’re in the countryside as you never know what is just around the next hedgerow. Follow the road and you’ll pass a turning on your left as your road bends round to the right. Follow your road round to the right and within about 50m you’ll pass another farm-track/road on your left. Don’t take this track; stay on the road and keep going until you reach the Old School House on your left. This is a small homestead which I think does B&B. Not sure if it was ever an actual school as it’s pretty far from the centre of Kames but it may have been in the days-of-long-ago. You’ll be walking uphill now and the climb does get steeper so take it easy.

After the Old School House the road bends round to the right. Keep following this through the woodland until you reach Ardlamont House. The house is on the right and there is an entrance to the Ardlamont Estate on your left. Follow the road, climbing slowly up the hill.

Leaving Ardlamont House and Estate you’ll pass a farm on your right and just past here the road takes a sharp turn to the right. It can feel quite steep here but it passes, flattens off for a bit, and then you’ll start to head downhill again. You’ll pass a farm track on your left; do not go down this if you’re following the route on your map app. It’s normally marked No Entry but it can seem tempting to shortcut to the beach; don’t. Keep following the road, which by now could be feeling like it never ends, and you’ll reach Kilbride Church and Cemetery. It’s worth popping into the churchyard – there’s a Commonwealth war grave here (a Royal Navy officer who died in 1919) – and the church is lovely. Back out from the churchyard and turn right to continue down the road. A few meters along and you’ll reach The Bothy at Kilbride Farm.

The track to the beach goes down the side of The Bothy and then heads over fields and scrubland until you get to the beach. The beach itself is amazing! White sands, plenty of old driftwood to assemble into patterns and shapes, and if you’re very lucky you may even spot some seals on the rocks at the far end. If you get a chance and haven’t brought a picnic with you (and it’s worth NOT bring a picnic just for this!) The Bothy is superb. When I was here last, the owner/manager/chef person was really friendly and helpful (and turned out to have worked in Horsham a few years ago) and did a wild range of Scotch Pies, which he served hot and wrapped along with cafetiere’s of coffee alongwith pastries and cake for those inclined. I skipped the cakes and had an extra pie. No judging! I think he also had an ice cream freezer but don’t quote me on that. Anyway, lovely service, great food, and well worth taking the time to stop here and enjoy. Opening hours probably vary so find them on facebook and check before you plan your day.

Follow the road again, heading inland now. It’s pretty flat for most of this bit but about 2/3’s of the way it starts to get a bit steeper as you approach Millhouse. Once you reach Millhouse centre you’ll be at a crossroads. Left and right is the National Cycleway; left goes to Portavadie and the ferries to Tarbert. Turning right takes you to Kames, so it’s off to the right you go.

The road climbs up out of Millhouse. Take care on this road as, whilst it looks quiet, it is the main route between the Kyles of Bute and the ferry across to Tarbert and that western part of Scotland, and cars and vans can speed along here. If you have a dog it’s best to walk on-lead here and probably a shortish lead too as cyclists and cars/vans can appear very quickly. The old Gunpowder cottages are on your left as you leave Millhouse. They made Gunpowder here and used to transport it down to the stone pier in front of Kames Hotel before loading it onto ships.

You’ll climb up towards the brow which is somewhat spoiled by an electrical substation on your left. Despite this you will have views back to Kilbride, across to Tarbert, and as you walk along here you’ll see the Kyles come back into view in the distance. Passing the Fire Station on your left, you’ll get to a crossroads. Kames War Memorial is on your right. Straight over and follow the road, past Kames Village Stores (an absolute Aladin’s cave and handy for almost anything you’ll need, although it reminded me of Italian supermarkets where nothing is grouped together in a way that makes any rhyme or reason). Keep going and the road twists and turns and you’ll round the final corner back at the Kames Hotel with those gobsmacking views. Grab a drink from the bar and sit outside and just soak in that fresh air. (If you sit on the tables just outside you shouldn’t be bothered by the midges if there’s a slight breeze: The landlady swore blind that the midges can’t fly or bite if there’s a sniff of a breeze.)